H&M’s digital twin models spark debate over AI’s impact on fashion workers

Red carpets, red flags?

H&M’s plan to create digital twins of fashion models signals a significant shift in how the fashion industry is embracing AI technology. This development highlights the tension between technological innovation and labor rights in creative industries, raising important questions about consent, compensation, and the future of human work in an increasingly AI-driven world.

The big picture: Fashion retail giant H&M plans to create 30 “digital twins” of its models in 2025, joining other major brands experimenting with AI-generated imagery in fashion.

• The company claims models would own the rights to their digital replicas and “get paid on each occasion just like on any campaign production.”
• H&M told CNN it is still “exploring” exactly how these digital avatars will be used but intends to implement the initiative in “a responsible way.”

Industry reactions: The announcement has sparked significant concerns from labor advocates and unions in the fashion and creative sectors.

• Sara Ziff, founder of the Model Alliance, expressed “serious concerns about the use of digital replicas without meaningful protections in place.”
• Paul W. Fleming of the UK‘s performing arts trade union Equity acknowledged H&M’s payment pledge but noted it must be “backed up by the widespread adoption of AI protections in union agreements and legislation.”

Why this matters: The initiative could potentially displace numerous creative professionals beyond just models.

• The Model Alliance warned that digital replicas could “replace a host of fashion workers—including make-up artists, hair stylists, and other creative artists.”
• Fleming emphasized that “artificial intelligence would not be possible without human artistry and labour, and humans should remain at the centre of creative endeavours.”

Not without precedent: H&M joins several major fashion companies already experimenting with AI-generated models and content.

• Levi Strauss announced plans to “supplement human models” with AI-generated ones in March 2023, though it later clarified it wouldn’t scale back live photo shoots after facing criticism.
• Spanish brand Mango launched an entirely AI-generated campaign for its youth collection in July 2024.
• The trend extends beyond traditional marketing, with AI-created influencers gaining popularity and even participating in the world’s first AI beauty pageant last year.